Blattner Varieties
Paul Troop in front of one of the more interesting of the new red varieties which has not yet been named 48.05.83, (in fourth leaf).
When Valentin Blattner started his breeding program in the 1980s, he wanted to reduce the use of chemicals in viticulture, but in order to do that, the wines needed to stand on their own. Thirty years later, the Swiss breeder’s successes are quite literally gaining ground in Vancouver Island vineyards, and producing some increasingly popular new wines.
Cabernet Libre, Cabernet Foch, Sauvignette (aka Epicure), Petite Milo, and a range of blends are finding their place alongside the more traditional varieties that Vancouver Island is known for like Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.
When Unsworth Vineyard in the Cowichan Valley was looking to expand their plantings in 2011 they put their trust in winemaker Daniel Cosman, and his belief in Blattner’s work, and planted six of the Blattner varietals.
“The start of Unsworth is very much tied to the Blattner varieties we planted,” says Chris Turyck, a certified Sommelier and winery ambassador for Unworth, who is involved in all areas of operation.
“It is an agricultural duty to reduce the amount of chemicals and sprays we use. It's an important sustainability question. What are your farming practices to make sure your vineyard is there,” he says. “From an agricultural perspective, it's equally important as finding a wine that's appropriate for our region and tastes delicious.”
Under Cosman’s guidance, Unsworth has proven that Blattner varieties can make wines that appeal to consumers and connoisseurs alike. Part of the challenge is establishing these new wines in an industry where consumers are programmed to look for what they know.
“From a marketplace perspective in the world of wine, things always come down to comparables,” Turyck explains. “One that really fits that bill for us is a varietal called Sauvignette. The structure on the palate, the acid and the body and intensity of flavor is similar to Chenin Blanc or Reisling, but has some really fun aromatic tones that you might expect from Viognier without the fat, while it retains a piercing acidity and minerality as well.”
Turyck compares another white, Amiel, to a pinot blanc or semillion. Petite Milo, brings a crisp acidity and generous fruit aroma similar to a Riesling. Among the reds, Cabernet Libre tastes and smells like a cool climate cabernet franc. He characterizes Labelle much like a merlot or cabernet sauvignon, and recommends it as a blending partner to Cabernet Libre.
“One that has extraordinary potential, but has only been made three times in its history, is one we affectionately call 83,” says Cosman, noting that they are still ironing out the fermentation profile. “At times it reminds me of what I would expect Sangiovese would be like grown in the Loire Valley. I think it’s exciting. It’s the way of the future.”
Daniel Cosman
Daniel Cosman, Consulting Winemaker.
Cosman’s excitement has played a significant role in building a future for Blattner varieties in Canada. Before he met the Turycks he worked with Paul Troop, a winemaker on Saltspring Island who has been running variety trials for Valentin Blattner on Saltspring since 1998.
“Daniel Cosman has been a real driving force behind getting these varieties planted. Without him this wouldn't have happened,” says Paul Troop. “He saw what the potential was and promoted it from a planting perspective. He really made it happen.”
It is always a gamble to try something new, and Cosman credits Unsworth owner Tim Turyck for being willing to take that initial risk. Their successes to date have helped ensure the program continues.
“We apply our most strict wine making philosophies and sommelier evaluation. The goal is to create something incredible,” says Cosman. “I’ve always trusted Chris to be brutally honest with me when I make wines, and at times we have failed. His palate put to test the ability of these wines to stand up to international standards.”
“Here's the thing with these modern varieties - if I want to make a pinot noir and I've never made wine before, I can sit at a computer and spend six months reading about every detail. If I want to make cabernet libre or petite milot, I can't phone anybody. We are literally writing the book on working with these varieties,” he says.
Paul Troop remains part of the avant-garde of winemaking with Blattner varietals through his work with Saltspring Island Vineyards, and is continuing his work on the variety trials. He currently has 100 new varieties in the testing phase, and will be starting more from seed in the coming year.
As a winemaker, Troop sees an opportunity for the Blattner varieties to help establish a regional identity for Island wines. As a viticulturist, he is adamant that these new varieties are part of a change that needs to happen in the industry.
“Viticulture accounts for three percent of world agricultural production, but something like 20 percent of pesticides used. The reason is because the vinifera grape is susceptible to a whole pile of diseases. To me, from an ethical perspective, there's a bit of a problem,” says Troop. “If we want to address that, if we care about those kinds of things, then it’s obvious that we need to be looking for something other than 100 percent vinifera grapes.”
Chris Turyk
Chris Turyk, Winery Ambassador.
Selected for disease resistance, manageability, and resilience as well as their flavour profiles, Blattner varieties are gaining attention in even the most conservative wine regions. Much of the rationale is economic.
According to Cosman, there are close to one million Blattner vines a year being planted to replace old varieties in Germany, and significant acreage going into France and Italy.
“They are starting to put in hybrids because the varieties are sometimes indiscernible from the so-called noble varieties, and they need a fraction of the pesticide use. All of this translates into massive savings – up to 30 percent of operations,” says Cosman.
“On Vancouver Island, five of the last 10 vintages were terrible, but it was during that time period that the Blattner varieties really came to fruition - no rot, yields were not affected, and the flavors of the wines were consistent. The results were clear to Paul and I at the time. Why would any farmer consider planting something that wouldn't ripen in your worst possible year?” he adds.
Troop is the sole distributor of Blattner varieties in Canada. He has been filling orders for a growing list of vineyards including Vancouver Island, the Fraser Valley, Lillooet, Ontario and Nova Scotia. This year he will also be sending vines to researchers in Oregon, California, Washington and Tennessee. It is all part of a broader global expansion.
“I believe that, no matter where one is in the viticulture world, they will be faced with having to accept and embrace new varieties that are not 100% vinifera,” says Troop. “Large wineries, especially those owned by national and international corporations have a vested interest in resisting these changes but, in time, regulations and environmental issues are bound to force that attitude to change.”
“I have found that working with Blattner has been on the leading/bleeding edge but it is only the early beginning of the change that is certain to come,” he concludes.
